Denier is a unit of measure for the linear mass density Linear density, linear mass density or linear mass is a measure of mass per unit of length, and it is a characteristic of strings or other one-dimensional objects. The SI unit of linear density is the kilogram per metre . The linear density, μ (sometimes denoted by λ), of an object is defined as: of fibers Fiber, also spelled fibre, is a class of materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongated pieces, similar to lengths of thread. They are very important in the biology of both plants and animals, for holding tissues together. Human uses for fibers are diverse. They can be spun into filaments, string or rope, used as a component. It is defined as the mass In physics, mass commonly refers to any of three properties of matter, which have been shown experimentally to be equivalent: inertial mass, active gravitational mass and passive gravitational mass. In everyday usage, mass is often taken to mean weight, but in scientific use, they refer to different properties in grams The gram , (Greek/Latin root grámma); symbol g, is a unit of mass per 9,000 meters The metre is the basic unit of length in the International System of Units (SI). Historically, the metre was defined by the French Academy of Sciences as the length between two marks on a platinum-iridium bar, which was designed to represent one ten-millionth of the distance from the Equator to the North Pole along the Paris Meridian. In 1983, the. In the International System of Units The International System of Units is the modern form of the metric system and is generally a system of units of measurement devised around seven base units and the convenience of the number ten. It is the world's most widely used system of measurement, both in everyday commerce and in science the tex is used instead (see below). The denier has its standard based in nature, a single strand of silk is one denier. Therefore, a sampled 9,000 meters length of silk will weigh one gram. The term denier is a literal combination of the words linear and density.

The term micro-denier is used to describe filaments that weigh less than one gram per 9,000 meter length.

One can distinguish between Filament and Total denier. Both are defined as above but the first only relates to a single filament of fiber (also commonly known as Denier per Filament or D.P.F) whereas the second relates to a yarn Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved, an agglomeration In the study of human settlements, an agglomeration is an extended city or town area comprising the built-up area of a central place and any suburbs linked by continuous urban area. In France, INSEE the French Statistical Institute, translate it as "Unité urbaine" which means continuous urbanized area. However, because of differences in of filaments.

The following relationship applies to straight, uniform filaments:

D.P.F. = Total Denier / Quantity of Uniform Filaments

The denier system of measurement is used on two and single filament fibers. Some common calculations are as follows:

In practice measuring 9,000 meters is both time-consuming and wasteful. Usually a sample of 900 meters is weighed and the result multiplied by 10 to obtain the denier weight.

• A fiber is generally considered a microfiber Microfiber or microfibre refers to synthetic fibers that measure less than one denier. The most common types of microfibers are made from polyesters, polyamides (nylon), and or a conjugation of polyester and polyamide if it is 1 denier or less.
• A 1-denier polyester Polyester is a category of polymers which contain the ester functional group in their main chain. Although there are many polyesters, the term "polyester" as a specific material most commonly refers to polyethylene terephthalate . Polyesters include naturally-occurring chemicals, such as in the cutin of plant cuticles, as well as fiber has a diameter In geometry, a diameter of a circle is any straight line segment that passes through the center of the circle and whose endpoints are on the circle. The diameters are the longest chords of the circle. The word "diameter" derives from Greek διάμετρος , "diagonal of a circle", from δια- (dia-), "across, through& of about 10 micrometers.
• Denier is used as the measure of density of weave in tights Tights are a kind of cloth leg garment, most often sheathing the body from about the waist to the feet with a more or less tight fit, hence the name and pantyhose Pantyhose are sheer, close-fitting coverings of the body from the waist to the feet. Traditionally considered a woman's garment, pantyhose appeared in the 1960s and provided a convenient alternative to stockings. Like stockings, pantyhose are usually made of nylon. Pantyhose are designed to:, which defines their opaqueness.

Tex

Tex is a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers and is defined as the mass in grams per 1000 meters. Tex is more likely to be used in Canada and Continental Europe Continental Europe, also referred to as mainland Europe or simply the Continent, is the continent of Europe, explicitly excluding European islands. Notably, in British English usage, the term means Europe excluding the United Kingdom, the Isle of Man, the Channel Islands, Ireland and Iceland, while denier remains more common in the United States and United Kingdom. The unit code is "tex". The most commonly used unit is actually the deci deci is a prefix in the SI system of units denoting a factor of 10−1 (1/10)tex, abbreviated dtex, which is the mass in grams per 10,000 meters. When measuring objects that consist of multiple fibers the term "filament tex" is sometimes used, referring to the mass in grams per 1000 meters of a single filament.

Tex is used for measuring fiber size in many products, including cigarette filters, optical cable, yarn, and fabric.

One can calculate the diameter of a filament given its weight in dtex with the following formula:

where ρ represents the material's density in grams per cubic centimeter and the diameter is in cm.

S or super S number

Super S or S number is a direct measure of the fineness of the wool fiber. It is most commonly seen as a label on wool suits and other tailored wool apparel to indicate the fineness of the wool fiber used in the making of the apparel. The numbers may also be found on wool fabric and yarn.

Worsted count

Worsted count ( or spinning count ) is an indirect measure of the fineness of the fiber in a worsted Worsted , is the name of a yarn, the cloth made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from the village of Worstead in the English county of Norfolk. This village became, along with North Walsham and Aylsham, a centre for the manufacture of yarn and cloth after weavers from Flanders arrived in Norfolk in the 12th century wool yarn expressed as the number of 560-yard ^[1] (1 yard = 0.9144 meters) lengths (hanks) of worsted yarn that a pound (0.45359237 kilograms) of wool yields [3]. The finer the wool, the more yarn and the higher the count. It has been largely replaced by direct measures.

Yield

Similar to tex and denier, yield is a term that helps describe the linear density of a roving A roving is a long and narrow bundle of fibre. It is usually used to spin woollen yarn. A roving can be created by carding the fibre, and it is then drawn into long strips. Because it is carded, the fibres are not parallel, though drawing it into strips may line the fibres up a bit. Roving is similar to sliver of fibers. However, unlike tex and denier, yield is the inverse of linear density and is usually expressed in yards/lb.

Yarn and thread

Cotton count

• Cotton Counts: The number of pieces of thread, 840 yards long needed to make up 1 lb weight. 10 count cotton means that 10x840 yds weighs 1lb. This is coarser than 40 count cotton where 40x840 yards are needed. In the United Kingdom, ones to 40s are coarse counts (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s are medium counts and above 80 is a fine count. In the United States ones to 20s are coarse counts.
• Hank: A length of 7 leas or 840 yards
• Thread: A length of 54 in (the circumference of a warp beam)
• Bundle: Usually 10 lbs
• Lea: A length of 80 threads or 120 yards^[2]
• Denier: this is an alternative method. It is defined as a number that is equivalent to the weight in grams of 9000m of a single yarn. 15 denier is finer than 30 denier.
• Tex: is the weight in grams of 1km of yarn.^[3]

Thread

Thread is a cotton Cotton is a soft, fluffy, staple fiber that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa. The fiber most often is spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile, which is the most widely used yarn measure, equal to 54 inches.

Yarn density conversion

Fabric

Mommes

Mommes (mm) is a unit of weight traditionally used to measure the density The density of a material is defined as its mass per unit volume. The symbol of density is ρ of silk SILK is an audio compression format and audio codec used by Skype. It is developed by Skype Limited. SILK is a replacement for the SVOPC codec. It is similar to the use of thread count Denier is a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers. It is defined as the mass in grams per 9,000 meters. In the International System of Units the tex is used instead for cotton fabrics. Mommes express the weight in pounds The pound or pound-mass is a unit of mass used in the imperial, United States customary and other systems of measurement. A number of different definitions have been used, the most common today being the international avoirdupois pound of exactly 0.45359237 kilograms, of a piece of material of size 45 inches An inch is the name of a unit of length in a number of different systems, including Imperial units, and United States customary units. There are 36 inches in a yard and 12 inches in a foot. A corresponding unit of area is the square inch and a corresponding unit of volume is the cubic inch. The inch is usually the universal unit of measurement in by 100 yards A yard is a unit of length in several different systems, including English units, Imperial units, and United States customary units. It is equal to 3 feet or 36 inches, although its length in SI units varied slightly from system to system. The most commonly used yard today is the international yard, which is defined to be exactly 0.9144 metre. Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). Therefore 1 momme = 4.340 g/m^2; 8 momme is close to 1 oz per square yard or 34 g/m^2.

The usual range of momme weight for different weaves of silk are:

• Habutai Habutai or Habotai is one of the most basic plain weaves. Whilst it was traditionally woven in Japan, most Habutai is today woven in China. It is normally a lining silk but can also be used for T-shirts, lampshades, summer blouses or very light lingerie. It is also known as "Jap Silk" or "Parachute Silk". It is quite easy to - 5 to 16 mm
• Chiffon Chiffon, from the French word for a cloth or rag, is a lightweight, balanced plain-woven sheer fabric woven of alternate S- and Z-twist crepe yarns. The twist in the crepe yarns puckers the fabric slightly in both directions after weaving, giving it some stretch and a slightly rough feel - 6 to 8 mm (can be made in double thickness, i.e. 12 to 16 mm)
• Crepe de Chine - 12 to 16 mm
• Gauze Gauze is a thin, translucent fabric with a loose open weave - 3 to 5 mm
• Raw silk - 35 to 40 mm (heavier silks appear more 'wooly')
• Organza Organza is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from silk, the continuous filament of silkworms. Nowadays, though many organzas are woven with synthetic filament fibers such as polyester or nylon, the most luxurious organzas are still woven in silk. Silk organza is woven by a number of mills along the Yangtze River and in the - 4 to 6 mm

Thread count

Thread count is a measure of the coarseness or fineness of fabric, and is also known as the number of threads per inch or TPI. It is measured by counting the number of threads contained in one square inch of fabric or one square centimeter, including both the length (warp In weaving, the warp is the set of lengthwise yarns through which the weft is woven. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end. Warp means "that which is thrown across") and width (weft In weaving, weft or woof is the yarn which is drawn under and over parallel warp yarns to create a fabric. In North America, it is sometimes referred to as the "fill" or the "filling yarn", and in India, it is referred to as "baana", which is derived from another hindi word "bun na" or "bunai") threads. The thread count is the number of threads counted along two sides (up and across) of the square inch, added together.^[4] It is used especially in regard to cotton linens Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen is labor-intensive to manufacture, but when it is made into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather such as bed sheets In many areas of the world, a second flat bed sheet is laid on top of the sheet covering the mattress. This is known as a "top sheet" and when a top sheet is used, the sheet covering the mattress is known as a "bottom sheet". One sleeps between the two bed sheets. Blankets, comforters, and other bed covers are then placed on, and has been known to be used in the classification of towels.

Thread count is often used as a measure of fabric quality, so that "standard" cotton thread counts are around 150 while good-quality sheets start at 180 and a count of 200 or higher is considered percale The term describes the weave of the fabric, not its content, so percale can be a 50/50 blend of cotton and polyester, 100% cotton, or a blend of other fabrics in any ratio. A percale weave has a thread count of about 200 or higher, and is noticeably tighter than the standard type of weave used for bed-sheets. It has medium weight, is firm and. Some, but not all of the extremely high thread counts (typically over 500) tend to be misleading as they usually count the individual threads in 'plied In the textile arts, plying is a process used to create a strong, balanced yarn. It is done by taking two or more strands of yarn that each have a twist to them and putting them together. The strands are twisted together, in the opposite direction than that in which they were spun. When just the right amount of twist is added, this creates a' yarns (a yarn that is made by twisting together multiple finer threads). For marketing purposes, a fabric with 250 two-ply yarns in both the vertical and horizontal direction could have the component threads counted to a 1000 thread count although "according to the National Textile Association (NTA), which cites the international standards group ASTM ASTM International , originally known as the American Society for Testing and Materials, is an international standards organization that develops and publishes voluntary consensus technical standards for a wide range of materials, products, systems, and services. The organization's headquarters is in West Conshohocken, Pennsylvania, about 5 miles, accepted industry practice is to count each thread as one, even threads spun as two- or three-ply yarn. The Federal Trade Commission The Federal Trade Commission is an independent agency of the United States government, established in 1914 by the Federal Trade Commission Act. Its principal mission is the promotion of "consumer protection" and the elimination and prevention of what regulators perceive to be harmfully "anti-competitive" business practices, in an August 2005 letter to NTA agreed that consumers 'could be deceived or misled' by inflated thread counts. ^[5] In 2002, ASTM proposed a definition for "thread count" ^[6] that has been called "the industry's first formal definition for thread count"^[7]. A minority on the ASTM committee argued for the higher yarn count number obtained by counting each single yarn in a plied yarn and cited as authority the provision relating to woven fabric in the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States, which states each ply should be counted as one using the "average yarn number."^[8]"

Ends per inch

Ends per inch (or e.p.i.) is the number of warp In weaving, the warp is the set of lengthwise yarns through which the weft is woven. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end. Warp means "that which is thrown across" threads per inch of woven fabric.^[9] In general, the higher the ends per inch, the finer the fabric is.

Ends per inch is very commonly used by weavers who must use the number of ends per inch in order to pick the right reed A reed is part of a loom, and resembles a comb. It is used to push the weft yarn securely into place as it is woven, separates the threads and keeps them in their positions, keeping them untangled, and guides the shuttle as it moves across the loom. It consists of a frame with lots of vertical slits. The reed is located inside the beater. Floor to weave Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the warp and the filling or weft , are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. The warp threads run lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the weft runs across from side to side with. The number of ends per inch varies on the pattern to be woven and the thickness of the thread. Plain weaves Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics generally use half the number of wraps per inch for the number of ends per inch, whereas denser weaves like a twill weave will use a higher ratio like two thirds of the number of wraps per inch. Finer threads require more threads per inch than thick ones, and thus result in a higher number of ends per inch.

The number of ends per inch in a piece of woven cloth varies depending on what stage the cloth is at. Before the cloth is woven the warp has a certain number of ends per inch, which is directly related to what size reed A reed is part of a loom, and resembles a comb. It is used to push the weft yarn securely into place as it is woven, separates the threads and keeps them in their positions, keeping them untangled, and guides the shuttle as it moves across the loom. It consists of a frame with lots of vertical slits. The reed is located inside the beater. Floor is being used. After weaving the number of ends per inch will increase, and it will increase again after being washed. This increase in the number of ends per inch (and picks per inch) and shrinkage in the size of the fabric is known as the take-up. The take-up is dependent on many factors, including the material and how tightly the cloth is woven. Tightly woven fabric shrinks more (and thus the number of ends per inch increases more) than loosely woven fabric, as do more elastic yarns and fibers.

Picks per inch

Picks per inch (or p.p.i.) is the number of weft In weaving, weft or woof is the yarn which is drawn under and over parallel warp yarns to create a fabric. In North America, it is sometimes referred to as the "fill" or the "filling yarn", and in India, it is referred to as "baana", which is derived from another hindi word "bun na" or "bunai" threads per inch of woven fabric.^[9] A pick is a single weft thread,^[9][10] hence the term. In general, the higher the picks per inch, the finer the fabric is.

References

1. ^ Collier 1970, p. 74
2. ^ Curtis 1921, p. Cotton count
3. ^ Collier 1970, p. 3
4. ^ http://www.sheets.co.nz/sheet_choose.html
5. ^ Federal Trade Commission Letter retrieved from NTA website February 9, 2009
6. ^ Revised Test Method Further Defines Fabric Count
7. ^ http://www.hometextilestoday.com/article/CA475384.html]"Down For the (Thread) Count"
8. ^ Down For the (Thread) Count - 10/25/2004 - Home Textiles Today
9. ^ ^{a b c} Curtis, H P (1921), "Glossary of Textile Terms", Arthur Roberts Black Book. (Manchester: Marsden & Company, Ltd. 1921), http://www.oneguyfrombarlick.co.uk/forum_topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=6424&FORUM_ID=99&CAT_ID=3&Forum_Title=Rare+Text+(Book+Transcriptions)&Topic_Title=A+Glossary+of+Textile+Terms, retrieved 2009-06-23
10. ^ "Pick." The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989.

Bibliography

• Collier, Ann M (1970). A Handbook of Textiles. Pergamon Press. pp. 258. ISBN The International Standard Book Number is a unique[clarification needed] numeric commercial book identifier based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering (SBN) code created by Gordon Foster, now Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, Dublin,[clarification needed] for the booksellers and stationers W.H. Smith and others in 1966 0 08 018057 4, 0 08 018056 6.

• Curtis, H P (1921), "Glossary of Textile Terms", Arthur Roberts Black Book. (Manchester: Marsden & Company, Ltd. 1921), http://www.oneguyfrombarlick.co.uk/forum_topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=6424&FORUM_ID=99&CAT_ID=3&Forum_Title=Rare+Text+(Book+Transcriptions)&Topic_Title=A+Glossary+of+Textile+Terms, retrieved 2009-01-11

External links

• Textiles Intelligence Glossary
• Textile Yarn Count Converter, Fabric Measurements & Conversions

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